Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Saturday 23 April

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Saturday 23 April: "Easter Saturday Today, I plan to go to the park and to the animal orphanage. Alex, my host mother’s nephew offers to take me. He sug..."

Saturday 23 April

Easter Saturday

Today, I plan to go to the park and to the animal orphanage.  Alex, my host mother’s nephew offers to take me.  He suggests collecting us at about 2pm. I quickly find out that Alex runs on extreme African time.  He shows up at about 4.30pm.  At this point I’d rather go for a drink than go to the park as I’m not sure it will be worth it.  However, Alex insists that this is the best time to go to the park as there will be fewer people and no queues.  He’s a very relaxed kind of person and seems to know what he’s talking about so I tag along.  Plus, I’m grateful that he’s offered to drive me there (forgetting of course that he’s a good two and a half hours late).  

My first test as a Luo

We arrive at the park at about 5pm and I am offered my first opportunity to pass for a Luo, and pay the local fee of Ksh150 (just over £1) for the Safari Walk, otherwise $25 which is the fee for foreigners.  Needless to say, I fail miserably.  The ticketing officer takes one look at me and requests $25.  Given that we only have about an hour or so before the park closes to the public, I find this price rather steep and decide it may not be worth it.  We decide at this point to try out the animal orphanage, located on the same grounds.  This time luck is on my side.  The guy at the ticketing desk here turns out to be an old school mate of Alex’s.   They chat for a little while and all the time I can feel the ticketing officer’s eyes on me, clearly trying to suss out if I’m Kenyan or not.   I find this amusing, and in some ways that relaxes me.   I smile back at him each time, and feel the need to acknowledge their conversation as best as I can as they speak a combination of Kiswahili and English.  Once they are done with catching up, he asks no questions – that saves the day.  Instead, he says to us ‘that will be Ksh150 each please’.  We pay and head into the orphanage - I’m in!!  My excitement is almost terminated when I see a guard approach us and talk to Alex in Kiswhahili.  I freak out.  It turns out he’s only checking our tickets – standard procedure.  I calm down.  I won’t even try to justify my actions here, and I don’t condone them, but as my colleague Eyrun says, ‘it’s part of the experience’.  

The animal orphanage 

In the animal orphanage, there is a lot to see - simba (the king of the jungle), caracal, warthog, cheetahs, ostriches, etc.  There are also two zedoks (cross breed between zebras and donkeys).  I am told that somewhere in Kenya they graze and breed together.  I am told that there are only  a handful of zedoks in Kenya – they are so graceful and beautiful.  There are also baboons and they are probably the freer of all the animals here.  They are in and out of their cages and are allowed to roam freely in the park.  They are amazing creatures to watch.   As I do so, I see a baboon grooming another’s nails.  I think this is cute until I realise that the one doing the grooming, eats away at any dirt /insects it finds in the other’s nails – eeeewwww!!! That definitely ends any cute thoughts I have about baboons.   Still they are very amusing and intelligent creatures.  

Out in the wild

Now here’s the best part of my trip to the park.  To cut a long story short, I get the chance to   hold a baby cheetah!  Initially, I freak out, but I quickly find that they are like cats, and I adore cats.  I’m told they are very tame when born.  Their animal instincts only kick in when they are older, about two years.  These baby cheetahs are only a few weeks or a month old.  They are so cute.  I get photos taken with them.   Next, I also get the chance to pat and take a photo with a six month old cheetah, which is the same size as a two-year old one, but still tame, I’m told.  Apparently at this age they are still very playful and tame, or so I’m told as it proceeds to chew on the straps of my handbag as I kneel next to it to get a photo taken.  Needless to say, I am absolutely petrified but don’t let this show, and spend no more than a minute or the time needed to take photographs.  Once done I make my exit quickly.   In as much as the park rangers are skilled in their job and know what they are doing, I tell myself I don’t want to be ‘an unfortunate victim’ statistic.  The photos are great though – including one of Alex’s finger in the cheetah’s mouth.  Apparently, the cheetah was being ‘playful’.  Baby cheetahs are cool.  Adult cheetahs – I certainly won’t be taking this risk again in my lifetime.  We leave unscathed and excited that we took amazing photos with a cheetah! 

Nairobi at night

After we leave the park, Alex shows me around town – Westlands, Hurlingham, Nairobi West, and the centre of town.  Westlands  and Hurlingham are upmarket areas in Nairobi, expensive to live in.  But it is also where all the nice bars, pubs, restaurants and malls are.  I make a mental note – visit and spend little money! 

Alex takes me to his favourite joint (bar) in Landi Mawe (Land of Stones) somewhere in the industrial area of Nairobi.  The bar itself is outdoors but with roofing to shield the rain when it comes.  It’s basic – there’s nothing fancy about it – but considering the number of people here, it certainly meets the needs of its customers well.  Alex tells me that he brought a date to this joint once ... she was not impressed, and needless to say he never saw her again.  I am told drink and food here is very decent and even more importantly not overpriced, something that is quite common with the posh bars.  I meet a couple of his friends – one is a pilot for Kenyan Airlines, and the other is Tanzanian, and a mechanic.  

Firsts

Today is a first for many things.  Here, I have my first Kenyan beer – Tusker – and my first taste of nyama choma (roasted meat / kebabs).   For the first time since I’ve been in Nairobi, I feel relaxed and chilled out and I have even shut down where work is concerned.  Since I started working in Kibera, I have gone to sleep each night thinking about work and how best to address all the challenges I face.   At this moment, Kibera seems very far away and in some ways I’m glad.  I may have settled fairly well physically, but I’m only now beginning to feel I’m settling in emotionally too.  Maybe it’s the Kenyan beer, but whatever it is, this is good. 

Alex drops me home at about 11pm.  Once again, I give my host mother an update.  It’s been a great day. 

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Friday, 22 April

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Friday, 22 April: "Good Friday and terrorist threats It’s Good Friday today. I have a lie in for the first time in weeks. I’m up at about 11am. I h..."

Friday, 22 April

Good Friday and terrorist threats

It’s Good Friday today.  I have a lie in for the first time in weeks.  I’m up at about 11am.  

I have breakfast and lunch, and head out to a coffee shop with Eyrun.  We sit outside.  It’s too hot for a coffee so I have a strawberry yoghurt smoothie instead.  It’s really good, like Eyrun says with everything in this cafe / restaurant.  This is a nice chilled out place.  It’s a restaurant, bar, cafe with free wifi access too.  It’s a popular place.  Eyrun and I talk away.  We talk about work.  We also talk about the news the night before.  The Kenyan police are on terrorist alert this weekend following information on terrorist threats.  It’s a scary thought.  We cover every possible question.  Where’s best to go (for a coffee)?  Is it advisable to stay indoors all the time?  Whom are ‘they targeting’ – locals, westerners, anyone?  Why?  News like this does make one tentative.  In particular, in Kenya where an act like this would not be new.  

What’s the terrorist attack drill?

Much like a fire drill, we talk rather candidly about this – me sipping my smoothie, Eyrun on her chocolate chip milkshake.   I even tell Eyrun that it’s probably best to sit out in the open at places like these as I reckon there’s more chance of survival should there be an attack.  Eyrun then says that she had heard that the terrorists would strike over Easter weekend.   She could be right, but I find this amusing, and I tell her so.  If ‘they’ would tell us where and when, it’d make our life, and the life of the intelligent police, a hell of a lot easier.  

We spend about three hours at the cafe; we take a walk round the shops and then head back home.  Tomorrow I plan to visit the National Park / Safari in Nairobi. 

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Thursday 21 April

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Thursday 21 April: "Signs of independence and pride Most of the staff are late in this morning. Apart from Eyrun and I, one of the others who is in early tod..."

Thursday 21 April

Signs of independence and pride

Most of the staff are late in this morning.  Apart from Eyrun and I, one of the others who is in early today has had a rough couple of days.  She’s been off work as her five year old has been unwell with pneumonia, and she was behind with two months of rent.  She has had to sell her DVD player for Ksh6000 (approx £43)to pay her landlord arrears totalling Ksh4,500 (approx £32).  Getting her child the right care is also costly.  I feel for her.  I think she’s a lovely girl who has a passion to do better in life.  Later in the afternoon, when we board a matatu to a local restaurant for lunch she pays her way there and back.  She even makes a contribution towards lunch, money given to her by a relative of hers who works in a restaurant close by.  Considering we had already indicated we would pay her share, I’m really touched that she still offers to make a contribution when she had the choice of not doing so.  I warm to her.

Later, I get another surprise at the office when I explain to colleagues that I will be collecting lunch money for the next week.  Earlier on we’d left two staff in the office to man the office – Mike and Sandra.  We’d also left them the remaining weekly lunch money from the kitty.   Sandra gives me back the money given to her earlier as she did not need it.  I sense some pride from her and I like it.  This is a new side to the staff that I’m seeing.  I don’t know what it is and I can’t take credit for it either - habits do not change in a week.    I may have misjudged them completely.  For the second time this afternoon, I’m touched.   

Winding down

Later in the day I check my emails.  There are one or two I’m looking forward to receiving.  I read them.  They put a smile on my face – just what I need to start off my Easter break.  There’s nothing more satisfying than reading from friends and family when I’m miles away from everyone.

This evening I’m transported into the world of Ghanaian film making – A sting in a tale.  It’s brilliantly written, utterly hilarious, well acted – all qualities I haven’t seen in Ghanaian films in a while.  I stay up late to watch it.  I do not have to be at work tomorrow. The next day, I relate the entire film to my host mother in true Stella narrative!

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Tuesday 19 April

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Tuesday 19 April: "Feeling a little nostalgic I wake up this morning missing family, friends and London. I update my facebook status to ‘Missing London’ ..."

Tuesday 19 April

Feeling a little nostalgic

I wake up this morning missing family, friends and London.  I update my facebook status to ‘Missing London’ and receive lovely messages from friends throughout the course of the day.   I browse yahoo news.  Scorching weather for the bank holiday weekend is predicted.  Timings for the Royal Wedding have been revealed.  Ah! I’m not on the guest list for the Royal Wedding, but I will miss the great party atmosphere which will be milked by Londoners no doubt.

Muzungu or not

There’s also one other thing on my mind.  It’s about my expenses here, and the need to be frugal as I only have myself to depend on when I’m back in London.  Much like the perception of Muzungus here (ie that all Muzungus are rich), regardless of colour, I fall into that category as I’m volunteering (forget the fact that I’ve worked hard and saved over several months).   I mull this over and all I can do for now is to be alert to others’ perception of me and be aware of their expectations.    As to whether I am willing to meet these expectations or not is another matter. 

My 'African' domestic skills are put to the test

When I get home today, Fiona my host mother asks me to cook.  She has bought some tilapia and wonders if I can make something with it.  In true African style, she assumes that I can cook.   Thank goodness I can.  Still I find it daunting in someone else’s kitchen and not being in control of ingredients to use.  However, when I start cooking she seems very interested in what I’m making and how I make it.  I realise now that that it’s an opportunity for her to experience a different cuisine from what she normally makes (which is varied and amazing food by the way).  I think she was hoping that I’d make a Ghanaian dish but that would entail me shopping for specific ingredients to make anything truly Ghanaian.  Instead, I stick with a modern European dish of fish and tomato sauce with onions (with an Asian twist spice-wise) which we have with homemade fries.  Cooking turns out to be a pleasant experience after all.   Fiona makes a massive salad with avocado and an amazing dressing to go with it.  We have dinner together with her son Nat.  They think the dish is lovely.  After feeling a little nervous about cooking earlier on, I’m happy with the result.  

A week later however, when I make this dish again, with slightly different ingredients, it doesn’t go down as well as the first time.  It's a lot more savoury and fishy, and not quite to my host mother's taste.  I like experimenting with food, so I'll try something else next time.

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Monday 18 April

Living in Nairobi, working in Kibera: Monday 18 April: "More on African leadership On the news today, Uganda’s President says that there will be no demonstration on the streets of Kampala in r..."

Monday 18 April

More on African leadership

On the news today, Uganda’s President says that there will be no demonstration on the streets of Kampala in response to the rising fuel prices and the consequent rise in the cost of living.  The opposition leader is arrested for having organised a demonstration, or of being in the process of organising one.  He is shown on TV being accosted as he comes out of his house.  There are a few words of exchange between him and those who accost him.  He has one hand in a sling but it doesn’t stop them from half carrying him and half pushing him into the back of a pickup truck.  He kicks helplessly.  I feel sorry for him, and for those who arrest him.  It’s ridiculous and I feel embarrassed even.  It’s unnecessary aggression for a non-crime.  I wonder how long leaders think they can suppress their own people until it erupts into something rather unpleasant.

And some good news on leadership

But with every bad news, there’s good news.  A soldier in Kenya  has walked 250 km to raise awareness on the importance of donating blood.  He made the journey in about a week and on his walk he spoke to people who came out to see him.  With my weekend just gone, and bearing in mind all the conversations I have had about development initiatives, I am beginning to think that regardless of the lack of resources in Kenya, there is a huge willingness and keenness to give back to one’s community in this part of the world.    

Also, in the news, there is a story about a woman who struggles to raise children with disabilities.  While her predicament is televised, there is also educative information for people in her position.  Issues to do with disabilities, both physical and mental, are rarely spoken about in a significant number of African communities.  So I find this programme not only educative, but current.