Saturday 23 April

Easter Saturday

Today, I plan to go to the park and to the animal orphanage.  Alex, my host mother’s nephew offers to take me.  He suggests collecting us at about 2pm. I quickly find out that Alex runs on extreme African time.  He shows up at about 4.30pm.  At this point I’d rather go for a drink than go to the park as I’m not sure it will be worth it.  However, Alex insists that this is the best time to go to the park as there will be fewer people and no queues.  He’s a very relaxed kind of person and seems to know what he’s talking about so I tag along.  Plus, I’m grateful that he’s offered to drive me there (forgetting of course that he’s a good two and a half hours late).  

My first test as a Luo

We arrive at the park at about 5pm and I am offered my first opportunity to pass for a Luo, and pay the local fee of Ksh150 (just over £1) for the Safari Walk, otherwise $25 which is the fee for foreigners.  Needless to say, I fail miserably.  The ticketing officer takes one look at me and requests $25.  Given that we only have about an hour or so before the park closes to the public, I find this price rather steep and decide it may not be worth it.  We decide at this point to try out the animal orphanage, located on the same grounds.  This time luck is on my side.  The guy at the ticketing desk here turns out to be an old school mate of Alex’s.   They chat for a little while and all the time I can feel the ticketing officer’s eyes on me, clearly trying to suss out if I’m Kenyan or not.   I find this amusing, and in some ways that relaxes me.   I smile back at him each time, and feel the need to acknowledge their conversation as best as I can as they speak a combination of Kiswahili and English.  Once they are done with catching up, he asks no questions – that saves the day.  Instead, he says to us ‘that will be Ksh150 each please’.  We pay and head into the orphanage - I’m in!!  My excitement is almost terminated when I see a guard approach us and talk to Alex in Kiswhahili.  I freak out.  It turns out he’s only checking our tickets – standard procedure.  I calm down.  I won’t even try to justify my actions here, and I don’t condone them, but as my colleague Eyrun says, ‘it’s part of the experience’.  

The animal orphanage 

In the animal orphanage, there is a lot to see - simba (the king of the jungle), caracal, warthog, cheetahs, ostriches, etc.  There are also two zedoks (cross breed between zebras and donkeys).  I am told that somewhere in Kenya they graze and breed together.  I am told that there are only  a handful of zedoks in Kenya – they are so graceful and beautiful.  There are also baboons and they are probably the freer of all the animals here.  They are in and out of their cages and are allowed to roam freely in the park.  They are amazing creatures to watch.   As I do so, I see a baboon grooming another’s nails.  I think this is cute until I realise that the one doing the grooming, eats away at any dirt /insects it finds in the other’s nails – eeeewwww!!! That definitely ends any cute thoughts I have about baboons.   Still they are very amusing and intelligent creatures.  

Out in the wild

Now here’s the best part of my trip to the park.  To cut a long story short, I get the chance to   hold a baby cheetah!  Initially, I freak out, but I quickly find that they are like cats, and I adore cats.  I’m told they are very tame when born.  Their animal instincts only kick in when they are older, about two years.  These baby cheetahs are only a few weeks or a month old.  They are so cute.  I get photos taken with them.   Next, I also get the chance to pat and take a photo with a six month old cheetah, which is the same size as a two-year old one, but still tame, I’m told.  Apparently at this age they are still very playful and tame, or so I’m told as it proceeds to chew on the straps of my handbag as I kneel next to it to get a photo taken.  Needless to say, I am absolutely petrified but don’t let this show, and spend no more than a minute or the time needed to take photographs.  Once done I make my exit quickly.   In as much as the park rangers are skilled in their job and know what they are doing, I tell myself I don’t want to be ‘an unfortunate victim’ statistic.  The photos are great though – including one of Alex’s finger in the cheetah’s mouth.  Apparently, the cheetah was being ‘playful’.  Baby cheetahs are cool.  Adult cheetahs – I certainly won’t be taking this risk again in my lifetime.  We leave unscathed and excited that we took amazing photos with a cheetah! 

Nairobi at night

After we leave the park, Alex shows me around town – Westlands, Hurlingham, Nairobi West, and the centre of town.  Westlands  and Hurlingham are upmarket areas in Nairobi, expensive to live in.  But it is also where all the nice bars, pubs, restaurants and malls are.  I make a mental note – visit and spend little money! 

Alex takes me to his favourite joint (bar) in Landi Mawe (Land of Stones) somewhere in the industrial area of Nairobi.  The bar itself is outdoors but with roofing to shield the rain when it comes.  It’s basic – there’s nothing fancy about it – but considering the number of people here, it certainly meets the needs of its customers well.  Alex tells me that he brought a date to this joint once ... she was not impressed, and needless to say he never saw her again.  I am told drink and food here is very decent and even more importantly not overpriced, something that is quite common with the posh bars.  I meet a couple of his friends – one is a pilot for Kenyan Airlines, and the other is Tanzanian, and a mechanic.  

Firsts

Today is a first for many things.  Here, I have my first Kenyan beer – Tusker – and my first taste of nyama choma (roasted meat / kebabs).   For the first time since I’ve been in Nairobi, I feel relaxed and chilled out and I have even shut down where work is concerned.  Since I started working in Kibera, I have gone to sleep each night thinking about work and how best to address all the challenges I face.   At this moment, Kibera seems very far away and in some ways I’m glad.  I may have settled fairly well physically, but I’m only now beginning to feel I’m settling in emotionally too.  Maybe it’s the Kenyan beer, but whatever it is, this is good. 

Alex drops me home at about 11pm.  Once again, I give my host mother an update.  It’s been a great day.